Sydney
Christmas in Sydney is a bit of blur - literally. I was staying in the Darlinghirst/Kingscross area which was really seedy - however I did get a room upgrade to a nice double with en-suite free of charge.
I took a day off before meeting up with some friends from the trip down from Cairns to celebrate Christmas Day.
We had a picnic on Bondi with quite a bit of wine. Vodka was added to the wine which was really the start of the blurry time. Thankfuly I was guided home safely (thanks to Em and Jess)!
I had a bit of time to catch up with the Blog and do some general exploring before Jen arrived for New Year.
Rather than giving you a day by day account of what Jen and I did I'll just give you a summary and include some pics.
At first we stayed at The Woolbrokers on Darling Harbour which was in a really good location plus close to the wharf for the New Year's Eve boat. For the second week we stayed above a pub on George Street which was OK if a bit noisey.
Harbour Bridge Pylon and the Rocks Pub Crawl (Strange Combination!)
After checking out some of the older pubs at the Rocks in Sydney (Hero of Waterloo and the Lord Nelson Brewery) we climbed the Pylon for some views over Sydney before heading down for more beer (Australian Heritage Hotel for a Scharers' Lager and The Fortune of War Hotel - the longest continuously licensed pub in Sydney!)
Star City Casino
Sorry Sydney but Melbourne beats this hands down!
Opera House Tour
This was a lot better than expected. It was a bit of a dash across the city to make the start of the tour but it was worth it. We had a good guide and we got to see inside a theatre as well as a concert hall although we couldn't get in the main hall as they were rehearsing for the New Years Eve celebrations. Our guide who was an opera singer herself (although we didn't know it) even tested the acoustics for us which caught us all by suprise.
Sydney Aquarium
Wish I'd taken my sea sickness tablets for this one as some of the exhibits were actually floating in the harbour. I finally got to see a platypus!!
As well as loads of fish there also were penguins, crocs and seals (not in the same tank!), there was also a really good exhibit on the Barrier Reef featuring Nemo and Dory!
New Years Eve
The top highlight has to be New Years Eve on Sydney Harbour.
After a few beers on Darling Harbour (very reasonably priced!) we boarded the Jerry Bailey.
There was a free bar and free food all night although some fat crackers seemed to be scoffing most of the food before it could get to us. We cruised out under the harbour bridge randomly passing the English cricket team (I think they'd been given a down-graded boat for losing!)
We then took up a position right across the harbour. At first we thought it was a bit two far away but it turned out to be perfect. We got great views of both sets of fireworks as well as the bridge all lit up which was v impressive.
The Rocks Ghost Walk
We thought this was going to be spoiled by the weather as a thunder storm started just as the walk did however we got on with it. It was really well done and a lot of people had parts to play - I had to act the part of a dead undertaker where hammering could be heard coming from my house long after I'd been dead.
I thought the best story was one in which a Greek Sea Captain staying at lodgings in the Rocks who was supposed to be saving his money to bring out his wife and family but went out to visit a lady of the night. In the middle of the night the landlady woke to screams coming from his room - it turns out he'd cut off his meat and two veg to punnish himself!
After being sent to hospital the landlady was surprised to see him back at her door next morning looking very pale - he asked if his room had been let to which she replied it had not been touched - he thanked her and walked off - concerned about his condition she telephoned the hospital only to be told that he had died late the previous night from loss of blood! Some scary stuff - I had to sleep with the light on that night.
The walk was particularly good as we visited some areas either not open to the public or else really hard to find, including some excavations of an old house.
Didgeridoo Peformance at Darling Harbour
I took Jen to see this as I'd enjoyed it last time. I was amazed to see it was the same bloke. He was really good and got the audience to participate and answered loads of questions about playing and Aboriginal culture.
Taronga Zoo
We took the ferry over from circular quay over to the zoo where just about every tourist in sydney decided to go that day too. It was a good afternoon though despite the weather. I was able to show Jen all the different animals I'd spotted all round Australia. The otters were pretty good and there was another Platypus! It was also strange to see some of the animals like the Giraffes against the backdrop of the city.
This Komodo Dragon was pretty impressive:
Powerhouse Museum and Great Wall of China Exhibition
Another rainy day - I can't understand the Sydney drought situation judging by the amount of rain that fell between Christmas and the 14th Jan!
Never mind though this was a good museum all about Science and Technology with loads of interactive exhibits. There was lots of transport stuff too including the first train in Australia and a replica of a space station. One display had me fascinated as there was a 3d projection of a man walking around inside a case talking about australian inventions and interacting with objects (just like when Princess Leia gets projected from R2-D2!) - amazing!
Also included in the museum was The Great Wall of China Exhibit: dynasties, dragons and warriors - at first I wasn't that interested but there were lots of video presentations which caught my interest. There was also some really impressive panoramic photography. Jen was asking why there was a diosaur running about and I had to point out it was a Chinese dragon!
Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan
Technically nothing to do with Sydney but we did see this film when we were there. I think they must have set out to offend every group in society so no one felt left out. A really really funny film although the naked fight scene is just wrong!
Hunter Valley
A very strange tour this one. Overall I enjoyed it but it did make me realise how good a lot of the backpacker tours really are. We got picked up from our accomodation and after a few laps of Sydney and some wrong turns we headed off to the Hunter Valley.
Here we had a wine tasting at Hunter Cellars which was pretty good. I bought a bottle of wine but was dissapointed to find that the grapes were not grown in the valley - still it tasted nice though. The chocolate tasting that followed was dissapointing and we were told there was no time for Cheese tasting (boo!)
We headed on to Port Stephens where after some frantic parking by the driver we were hurried onto our boat for lunch. After lunch we did get to see quite a few dolphins and see a lot of the coastline.
Once back on shore we were driven to our next stop - The Stockton Bight Sand Dunes where we did a spot of sand boarding - it was pretty windy though so lots of sand in the teeth as well as well as everywhere else.
The drive back to Sydney was a nightmare though with a family who had no control over there kids who shouted and screamed for the whole journey. I think I've been spoiled by those backpacker tours!
Bondi to Coogee Walk
We took the bus to Bondi for this walk which I'd definately recommend. First we walked up to the golf course at Bondi to see the Aboriginal rock carvings - these were definately not worth the trip and you could just as easily start from the promenade.
Basically you walk along the coastal path taking in lots of different beaches and other sites - Tamarama, Bronte Beach, Waverley Cemetery
(really old by Australian standards and quite picturesque for a cemetery), Clovely, Gordons Bay (with underwater guided snorkel) - before arriving at Coogee.
Paddington Markets
A bit more upmarket than the Paddo markets - lots of arts and crafts. We also took the opportunity to find some of the old pubs around Paddington and Woollahra. We visited Four In Hand, Bellevue, Lord Dudley and Durty Nelly's.
The Blue Mountains
Day 1
A fantastic trip - our first stop was at a camp site where we got to see Kangaroos up close - I'd seen enough by now but I know Jen enjoyed it - there were also loads of Cockatoos flying around.
From there we headed on to the first walk - quite a challenging one at that a 3 hour loop walk at Wentworth falls - there was a really steep stair climb towards the end and I thought we were going to need a helicopter rescue to get Jen to the end!
We were all ready for lunch then straight into another walk (Furber Stairs)- this time the stairs went straight down - it was the Furber stairs walk to Jamieson valley - we got our first view of the 3 Sisters on the way down. Fortunately we didn't have to walk back as we took the "scenic" railway back to the top - this is the steepest railway in the world and more like a rollercoaster than a scenic ride - just when you thought the train couldn't tilt up anymore it would move up a few more degrees - good fun though!
After a tiring day we got dropped off at our accomodation - The Katoomba YHA - A really nice hostel however typical of any YHA there were a lot of rules.
Day 2
We explored Katoomba town centre checking out the book shops and The Paragon Chocolate factory before doing our final walk - The Prince Henry Cliff top walk. There were loads of great views on this walk and climbing was kept to a minimum as we worked our way along to Katoomba falls - we persisted climbing around and eventually got a good view of the falls - we were surprised to come out at the start of the Furber Stairs walk.
We had time to relax back at the hostel before being picked up and driven back to Sydney.
Manly Beach
A ferry trip from Sydney. It was a nice beach but there was quite a bit of rubbish left behind by people. It was late afternoon when we got there so we spent a few hours on the beach before going for a Mexican meal.
Contemporary Art Gallery
This was free so we went to check it out. There were lots of weird stuff here including a really strange film that looked like it had been inspired by the Matrix projected onto a huge screen - the sound effects were deafening. There was one exhibit I was interested in based on the film Dog Day Afternoon (I'd recommend it) basically without giving too much away it's about a bank robbery that goes wrong. The exhibit showed a split screen view of the film along with a surviving member of the gang who talked through his version of events.
Sydney Museum
Very Poor - half the museum was closed and there was not much to diferentiate it from any other museum.
Botanical Gardens
Relaxing place to get over that hangover. Loads of good views and photo opportunities of the city (Mrs Macquaries Point and Chair are good spots).
There are also tonnes of wildlife especially Flying Foxes.
Liverpool Street
One of our favourite eating spots with lots of Spanish restaurants clustered together.
Justice and Police Museum
Not the most thrilling sounding of museums but this place was spot on - in contrast to the Sydney Museum. The Justice & Police Museum was originally the Water Police Court (1856), Water Police Station (1858) and Police Court (1886). Restored to their 1890s character, the building's heavy blocks of sandstone, spiked gates, winding steps and corridor of cells reinforce the Museum's themes of crime and punishment and law and order.
There was lots of information about some notorious Australian crimes such as the Pyjama Girl Case and the Graeme Thorne Kidnapping. There is also information on some the old criminals who operated in and around Sydney.
When we were there, there was also a really good photography exhibit here called City of shadows: inner city crime & mayhem 1912-1948 -
"The extensive collection of police forensic negatives held at the Justice & Police Museum casts a fascinating light on the shadowy underworld of Sydney between the wars. In the mugshots we encounter people of that world – thieves, breakers, receivers, ‘magsmen’, ‘spielers’, ‘urgers’, ‘gingerers’, false pretenders, ‘hotel barbers’, shoplifters, dope users, prostitutes, makers of false oaths – and the occasional murderer. And within this medium of crime and accident scene photographs we are able to view, sometimes in extraordinary detail, their physical milieu – the mean kitchens, bedrooms and parlours, the pubs, boarding houses, corner shops and residentials, the sheds, garages, back lanes, streets and byways of a Sydney that is both eerily strange but all too familiar".
The Rocks Market
One of the last places we visited to pic up a few souvenirs and presents. We also found some good photos of the fireworks and bridge at New Year.
Sydney Tour and Oz Trek
At first I thought this seemed pretty expensive but it turned out to be quite good. The OZ Trek part was the best - it started in a rotating theatre - I couldn't believe it it was all presented by the 3d projections I'd seen in the Science Museum! After 4 views of Australia we were taken through to the main ride where you were strapped into a seat surrounded by cinema screens. As you were 'flown' all around Oz including back in time the seats moved with the camera - Not recommended for if you have a hangover!
The tower itself gave good views as you'd expect, however it was cloudy when we went up.
Hyde Park Barracks
We visited here on our last day in Sydney. It's pretty hard not to get interested in the history of Convicts when visiting Australia. I knew a bit about this place from a book I was reading - "The Fatal Shore" by Robert Hughes and was a bit surprised when Jen said she wanted to see it.
The Hyde Park Barracks, built between 1817 and 1819 and constructed by convict labour, the Barracks is one of the finest works of the accomplished colonial architect Francis Greenway. As the principal male convict barracks in New South Wales it provided lodgings for convicts working in government employment around Sydney until its closure in 1848.
It has had many occupants since then. It was an Immigration Depot for single female immigrants seeking work as domestic servants and awaiting family reunion from 1848 to 1886 and also a female asylum from 1862 to 1886. From 1887 to 1979 law courts and government offices were based at the Barracks.
The museum had lots of information on Transportation, convict life as well as excavated artefacts and exposed layers of building fabric.
And of course The Pubs...
We got a Sydney Pub guide book and checked out quite a few...
And so with all this under our belts we headed to the airport for our flight to Singapore.
I took a day off before meeting up with some friends from the trip down from Cairns to celebrate Christmas Day.
We had a picnic on Bondi with quite a bit of wine. Vodka was added to the wine which was really the start of the blurry time. Thankfuly I was guided home safely (thanks to Em and Jess)!
I had a bit of time to catch up with the Blog and do some general exploring before Jen arrived for New Year.
Rather than giving you a day by day account of what Jen and I did I'll just give you a summary and include some pics.
At first we stayed at The Woolbrokers on Darling Harbour which was in a really good location plus close to the wharf for the New Year's Eve boat. For the second week we stayed above a pub on George Street which was OK if a bit noisey.
Harbour Bridge Pylon and the Rocks Pub Crawl (Strange Combination!)
After checking out some of the older pubs at the Rocks in Sydney (Hero of Waterloo and the Lord Nelson Brewery) we climbed the Pylon for some views over Sydney before heading down for more beer (Australian Heritage Hotel for a Scharers' Lager and The Fortune of War Hotel - the longest continuously licensed pub in Sydney!)
Star City Casino
Sorry Sydney but Melbourne beats this hands down!
Opera House Tour
This was a lot better than expected. It was a bit of a dash across the city to make the start of the tour but it was worth it. We had a good guide and we got to see inside a theatre as well as a concert hall although we couldn't get in the main hall as they were rehearsing for the New Years Eve celebrations. Our guide who was an opera singer herself (although we didn't know it) even tested the acoustics for us which caught us all by suprise.
Sydney Aquarium
Wish I'd taken my sea sickness tablets for this one as some of the exhibits were actually floating in the harbour. I finally got to see a platypus!!
As well as loads of fish there also were penguins, crocs and seals (not in the same tank!), there was also a really good exhibit on the Barrier Reef featuring Nemo and Dory!
New Years Eve
The top highlight has to be New Years Eve on Sydney Harbour.
After a few beers on Darling Harbour (very reasonably priced!) we boarded the Jerry Bailey.
There was a free bar and free food all night although some fat crackers seemed to be scoffing most of the food before it could get to us. We cruised out under the harbour bridge randomly passing the English cricket team (I think they'd been given a down-graded boat for losing!)
We then took up a position right across the harbour. At first we thought it was a bit two far away but it turned out to be perfect. We got great views of both sets of fireworks as well as the bridge all lit up which was v impressive.
The Rocks Ghost Walk
We thought this was going to be spoiled by the weather as a thunder storm started just as the walk did however we got on with it. It was really well done and a lot of people had parts to play - I had to act the part of a dead undertaker where hammering could be heard coming from my house long after I'd been dead.
I thought the best story was one in which a Greek Sea Captain staying at lodgings in the Rocks who was supposed to be saving his money to bring out his wife and family but went out to visit a lady of the night. In the middle of the night the landlady woke to screams coming from his room - it turns out he'd cut off his meat and two veg to punnish himself!
After being sent to hospital the landlady was surprised to see him back at her door next morning looking very pale - he asked if his room had been let to which she replied it had not been touched - he thanked her and walked off - concerned about his condition she telephoned the hospital only to be told that he had died late the previous night from loss of blood! Some scary stuff - I had to sleep with the light on that night.
The walk was particularly good as we visited some areas either not open to the public or else really hard to find, including some excavations of an old house.
Didgeridoo Peformance at Darling Harbour
I took Jen to see this as I'd enjoyed it last time. I was amazed to see it was the same bloke. He was really good and got the audience to participate and answered loads of questions about playing and Aboriginal culture.
Taronga Zoo
We took the ferry over from circular quay over to the zoo where just about every tourist in sydney decided to go that day too. It was a good afternoon though despite the weather. I was able to show Jen all the different animals I'd spotted all round Australia. The otters were pretty good and there was another Platypus! It was also strange to see some of the animals like the Giraffes against the backdrop of the city.
This Komodo Dragon was pretty impressive:
Powerhouse Museum and Great Wall of China Exhibition
Another rainy day - I can't understand the Sydney drought situation judging by the amount of rain that fell between Christmas and the 14th Jan!
Never mind though this was a good museum all about Science and Technology with loads of interactive exhibits. There was lots of transport stuff too including the first train in Australia and a replica of a space station. One display had me fascinated as there was a 3d projection of a man walking around inside a case talking about australian inventions and interacting with objects (just like when Princess Leia gets projected from R2-D2!) - amazing!
Also included in the museum was The Great Wall of China Exhibit: dynasties, dragons and warriors - at first I wasn't that interested but there were lots of video presentations which caught my interest. There was also some really impressive panoramic photography. Jen was asking why there was a diosaur running about and I had to point out it was a Chinese dragon!
Borat: Cultural Learnings of America for Make Benefit Glorious Nation of Kazakhstan
Technically nothing to do with Sydney but we did see this film when we were there. I think they must have set out to offend every group in society so no one felt left out. A really really funny film although the naked fight scene is just wrong!
Hunter Valley
A very strange tour this one. Overall I enjoyed it but it did make me realise how good a lot of the backpacker tours really are. We got picked up from our accomodation and after a few laps of Sydney and some wrong turns we headed off to the Hunter Valley.
Here we had a wine tasting at Hunter Cellars which was pretty good. I bought a bottle of wine but was dissapointed to find that the grapes were not grown in the valley - still it tasted nice though. The chocolate tasting that followed was dissapointing and we were told there was no time for Cheese tasting (boo!)
We headed on to Port Stephens where after some frantic parking by the driver we were hurried onto our boat for lunch. After lunch we did get to see quite a few dolphins and see a lot of the coastline.
Once back on shore we were driven to our next stop - The Stockton Bight Sand Dunes where we did a spot of sand boarding - it was pretty windy though so lots of sand in the teeth as well as well as everywhere else.
The drive back to Sydney was a nightmare though with a family who had no control over there kids who shouted and screamed for the whole journey. I think I've been spoiled by those backpacker tours!
Bondi to Coogee Walk
We took the bus to Bondi for this walk which I'd definately recommend. First we walked up to the golf course at Bondi to see the Aboriginal rock carvings - these were definately not worth the trip and you could just as easily start from the promenade.
Basically you walk along the coastal path taking in lots of different beaches and other sites - Tamarama, Bronte Beach, Waverley Cemetery
(really old by Australian standards and quite picturesque for a cemetery), Clovely, Gordons Bay (with underwater guided snorkel) - before arriving at Coogee.
Paddington Markets
A bit more upmarket than the Paddo markets - lots of arts and crafts. We also took the opportunity to find some of the old pubs around Paddington and Woollahra. We visited Four In Hand, Bellevue, Lord Dudley and Durty Nelly's.
The Blue Mountains
Day 1
A fantastic trip - our first stop was at a camp site where we got to see Kangaroos up close - I'd seen enough by now but I know Jen enjoyed it - there were also loads of Cockatoos flying around.
From there we headed on to the first walk - quite a challenging one at that a 3 hour loop walk at Wentworth falls - there was a really steep stair climb towards the end and I thought we were going to need a helicopter rescue to get Jen to the end!
We were all ready for lunch then straight into another walk (Furber Stairs)- this time the stairs went straight down - it was the Furber stairs walk to Jamieson valley - we got our first view of the 3 Sisters on the way down. Fortunately we didn't have to walk back as we took the "scenic" railway back to the top - this is the steepest railway in the world and more like a rollercoaster than a scenic ride - just when you thought the train couldn't tilt up anymore it would move up a few more degrees - good fun though!
After a tiring day we got dropped off at our accomodation - The Katoomba YHA - A really nice hostel however typical of any YHA there were a lot of rules.
Day 2
We explored Katoomba town centre checking out the book shops and The Paragon Chocolate factory before doing our final walk - The Prince Henry Cliff top walk. There were loads of great views on this walk and climbing was kept to a minimum as we worked our way along to Katoomba falls - we persisted climbing around and eventually got a good view of the falls - we were surprised to come out at the start of the Furber Stairs walk.
We had time to relax back at the hostel before being picked up and driven back to Sydney.
Manly Beach
A ferry trip from Sydney. It was a nice beach but there was quite a bit of rubbish left behind by people. It was late afternoon when we got there so we spent a few hours on the beach before going for a Mexican meal.
Contemporary Art Gallery
This was free so we went to check it out. There were lots of weird stuff here including a really strange film that looked like it had been inspired by the Matrix projected onto a huge screen - the sound effects were deafening. There was one exhibit I was interested in based on the film Dog Day Afternoon (I'd recommend it) basically without giving too much away it's about a bank robbery that goes wrong. The exhibit showed a split screen view of the film along with a surviving member of the gang who talked through his version of events.
Sydney Museum
Very Poor - half the museum was closed and there was not much to diferentiate it from any other museum.
Botanical Gardens
Relaxing place to get over that hangover. Loads of good views and photo opportunities of the city (Mrs Macquaries Point and Chair are good spots).
There are also tonnes of wildlife especially Flying Foxes.
Liverpool Street
One of our favourite eating spots with lots of Spanish restaurants clustered together.
Justice and Police Museum
Not the most thrilling sounding of museums but this place was spot on - in contrast to the Sydney Museum. The Justice & Police Museum was originally the Water Police Court (1856), Water Police Station (1858) and Police Court (1886). Restored to their 1890s character, the building's heavy blocks of sandstone, spiked gates, winding steps and corridor of cells reinforce the Museum's themes of crime and punishment and law and order.
There was lots of information about some notorious Australian crimes such as the Pyjama Girl Case and the Graeme Thorne Kidnapping. There is also information on some the old criminals who operated in and around Sydney.
When we were there, there was also a really good photography exhibit here called City of shadows: inner city crime & mayhem 1912-1948 -
"The extensive collection of police forensic negatives held at the Justice & Police Museum casts a fascinating light on the shadowy underworld of Sydney between the wars. In the mugshots we encounter people of that world – thieves, breakers, receivers, ‘magsmen’, ‘spielers’, ‘urgers’, ‘gingerers’, false pretenders, ‘hotel barbers’, shoplifters, dope users, prostitutes, makers of false oaths – and the occasional murderer. And within this medium of crime and accident scene photographs we are able to view, sometimes in extraordinary detail, their physical milieu – the mean kitchens, bedrooms and parlours, the pubs, boarding houses, corner shops and residentials, the sheds, garages, back lanes, streets and byways of a Sydney that is both eerily strange but all too familiar".
The Rocks Market
One of the last places we visited to pic up a few souvenirs and presents. We also found some good photos of the fireworks and bridge at New Year.
Sydney Tour and Oz Trek
At first I thought this seemed pretty expensive but it turned out to be quite good. The OZ Trek part was the best - it started in a rotating theatre - I couldn't believe it it was all presented by the 3d projections I'd seen in the Science Museum! After 4 views of Australia we were taken through to the main ride where you were strapped into a seat surrounded by cinema screens. As you were 'flown' all around Oz including back in time the seats moved with the camera - Not recommended for if you have a hangover!
The tower itself gave good views as you'd expect, however it was cloudy when we went up.
Hyde Park Barracks
We visited here on our last day in Sydney. It's pretty hard not to get interested in the history of Convicts when visiting Australia. I knew a bit about this place from a book I was reading - "The Fatal Shore" by Robert Hughes and was a bit surprised when Jen said she wanted to see it.
The Hyde Park Barracks, built between 1817 and 1819 and constructed by convict labour, the Barracks is one of the finest works of the accomplished colonial architect Francis Greenway. As the principal male convict barracks in New South Wales it provided lodgings for convicts working in government employment around Sydney until its closure in 1848.
It has had many occupants since then. It was an Immigration Depot for single female immigrants seeking work as domestic servants and awaiting family reunion from 1848 to 1886 and also a female asylum from 1862 to 1886. From 1887 to 1979 law courts and government offices were based at the Barracks.
The museum had lots of information on Transportation, convict life as well as excavated artefacts and exposed layers of building fabric.
And of course The Pubs...
We got a Sydney Pub guide book and checked out quite a few...
And so with all this under our belts we headed to the airport for our flight to Singapore.
posted by Phil at 6:26 AM
2 Comments:
A fantastic trip!
Love
Jen
x
Hi Phil,
Sounds like you both had a good time.
Are you planning to turn your blog into a book when you get home?
Charlotte
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