Easter Island Trip - Part 3
Day 6
The day of the tour. Typically it was raining, but we headed out determined not to let the weather ruin the day.
We had arranged to meet Bill and the rest of the group at the church. The Catholic Church is famous for its choir and when we arrived at 9.30 people were queuing out of the door. After hearing a bit of the music and singing the mini-bus arrived.
There was only six of us in the group which was great as we could hear what Bill was saying and move around the sites easily. As well as telling us about the history Bill also gave us an insight into island life and stories he'd heard from his wife's family.
My favourite was about his father-in-law who as a young man had built a boat to escape the islands with some friends. The raft got into difficulties after some days and they ran out of food and supplies - they were forced to eat the cow hide that they had used to line the boat. After many more days drifting it was clear they were going to die. In desperation they decided to draw lots to decide which one of the party they would kill and eat. The lots were drawn and the unlucky one was chosen and they went to sleep knowing what they had to do next morning. Well next morning they awoke to the captain and crew of a ship peering into the boat at what they presumed to be dead bodies - amazingly they were all rescued. It is strange to think what would have happened if the ship had not been there to save their skin (literally in one case!) Bill said that his father-in-Law twice saw the face of Jesus on that journey and he became a devout Catholic on his return to the island.
We headed along the south coast and made a number of stops:
- Ahu Vaihu a large platform with several statues and topknots (Moai hats) made of red soria.
- Aka Hanga an archaeological site composed of several platforms.
- Moai Ahu Hanga Tetenga the biggest Moai ever moved from the quarry. The moai still lay toppled.
We also saw a cave which some theorists say was fortified during the clan wars and the remains of stone chicken houses - houses built to keep chickens over night so that they weren't stolen.
We then moved onto Rano Raraku the quarry itself from which all the moai originate. It is sometimes called the Moai Garden as there are still 400 statues scattered around the place showing the different carving steps. If a moai was damaged during initial carving then it was just left there. Almost all the carving was done before the statue was moved - it was thought that if the statue broke en-route then it was not worthy to be placed on a ahu and there are many other abandoned Moai on the two roads which were used to transport the Moai all around the island.
At the site we saw the most photographed moai which people used to believe were just heads until an archeologist dug one up. They were re-burried for preservation.
We also saw a unique kneeling moai.
As it was a wet day we couldn't climb to the top of the quarry so headed down to an area where there were craft stalls for a look around.
Next we headed to Ahu Tongariki - the largest shrine on the island - 15 huge stone statues restored by a Japanese company in 1993.
Although the moai had been pulled down the site suffered a further disaster when a tidal wave hit the island washing the broken parts around. The restoration team had done a good job and this is the site you often see in photos of the island. At certain times of the year the sun rises behind this ahu.
Next to Ahu Tongariki is the Papa Tataku Poki rock art site with many motifs carved into the rock - this was one of the main areas I thought should be protected as you could walk over the rocks and it was clear that the weather was eroding the designs too.
From there we moved on to the islands only accesible white sand beach at Anakena. This was said to be the site of the landing of King Hoto Matua. On the beach there is another restored ahu - Ahu Nau Nau. Close by there is a smooth round stone with seats around it - Te Pito o Te Henua (the navel of the World) the name given by the first settlers who saw the island as a place of rebirth where they were starting a new life in a new place.
When the weather is good they have bbqs on the beach but it was pretty quiet when we were there, except for the horses running wild.
Our last stop of the tour was Huri Irenga - the unique four handed Moai. We were going to see this on the day we walked to Vina Pu but didn't have time.
We arrived back in town after a great tour.
Day 7
We had a nice lunch of beef stew at the cafe in town. We decided to go back to the quarry by taxi for a better look around as the weather was a bit nicer. The taxi was expensive but the driver was cool and wouldn't take any payment until he came back for us.
We were able to climb right up to the top of the quarry and look over the otherside. There was a lake and lots more moai that had been abandoned.
We then walk to Ahu Tongariki where we met the taxi.
We had a quiet last night on the island at a restaurant near the bay.
Day 8
It was time to say goodbye to the island and off we went to the airport. Raul had made some shell neclaces for us as a send off. Because the airport was so small we could stand outside almost on the runway and watch the plane land.
The day of the tour. Typically it was raining, but we headed out determined not to let the weather ruin the day.
We had arranged to meet Bill and the rest of the group at the church. The Catholic Church is famous for its choir and when we arrived at 9.30 people were queuing out of the door. After hearing a bit of the music and singing the mini-bus arrived.
There was only six of us in the group which was great as we could hear what Bill was saying and move around the sites easily. As well as telling us about the history Bill also gave us an insight into island life and stories he'd heard from his wife's family.
My favourite was about his father-in-law who as a young man had built a boat to escape the islands with some friends. The raft got into difficulties after some days and they ran out of food and supplies - they were forced to eat the cow hide that they had used to line the boat. After many more days drifting it was clear they were going to die. In desperation they decided to draw lots to decide which one of the party they would kill and eat. The lots were drawn and the unlucky one was chosen and they went to sleep knowing what they had to do next morning. Well next morning they awoke to the captain and crew of a ship peering into the boat at what they presumed to be dead bodies - amazingly they were all rescued. It is strange to think what would have happened if the ship had not been there to save their skin (literally in one case!) Bill said that his father-in-Law twice saw the face of Jesus on that journey and he became a devout Catholic on his return to the island.
We headed along the south coast and made a number of stops:
- Ahu Vaihu a large platform with several statues and topknots (Moai hats) made of red soria.
- Aka Hanga an archaeological site composed of several platforms.
- Moai Ahu Hanga Tetenga the biggest Moai ever moved from the quarry. The moai still lay toppled.
We also saw a cave which some theorists say was fortified during the clan wars and the remains of stone chicken houses - houses built to keep chickens over night so that they weren't stolen.
We then moved onto Rano Raraku the quarry itself from which all the moai originate. It is sometimes called the Moai Garden as there are still 400 statues scattered around the place showing the different carving steps. If a moai was damaged during initial carving then it was just left there. Almost all the carving was done before the statue was moved - it was thought that if the statue broke en-route then it was not worthy to be placed on a ahu and there are many other abandoned Moai on the two roads which were used to transport the Moai all around the island.
At the site we saw the most photographed moai which people used to believe were just heads until an archeologist dug one up. They were re-burried for preservation.
We also saw a unique kneeling moai.
As it was a wet day we couldn't climb to the top of the quarry so headed down to an area where there were craft stalls for a look around.
Next we headed to Ahu Tongariki - the largest shrine on the island - 15 huge stone statues restored by a Japanese company in 1993.
Although the moai had been pulled down the site suffered a further disaster when a tidal wave hit the island washing the broken parts around. The restoration team had done a good job and this is the site you often see in photos of the island. At certain times of the year the sun rises behind this ahu.
Next to Ahu Tongariki is the Papa Tataku Poki rock art site with many motifs carved into the rock - this was one of the main areas I thought should be protected as you could walk over the rocks and it was clear that the weather was eroding the designs too.
From there we moved on to the islands only accesible white sand beach at Anakena. This was said to be the site of the landing of King Hoto Matua. On the beach there is another restored ahu - Ahu Nau Nau. Close by there is a smooth round stone with seats around it - Te Pito o Te Henua (the navel of the World) the name given by the first settlers who saw the island as a place of rebirth where they were starting a new life in a new place.
When the weather is good they have bbqs on the beach but it was pretty quiet when we were there, except for the horses running wild.
Our last stop of the tour was Huri Irenga - the unique four handed Moai. We were going to see this on the day we walked to Vina Pu but didn't have time.
We arrived back in town after a great tour.
Day 7
We had a nice lunch of beef stew at the cafe in town. We decided to go back to the quarry by taxi for a better look around as the weather was a bit nicer. The taxi was expensive but the driver was cool and wouldn't take any payment until he came back for us.
We were able to climb right up to the top of the quarry and look over the otherside. There was a lake and lots more moai that had been abandoned.
We then walk to Ahu Tongariki where we met the taxi.
We had a quiet last night on the island at a restaurant near the bay.
Day 8
It was time to say goodbye to the island and off we went to the airport. Raul had made some shell neclaces for us as a send off. Because the airport was so small we could stand outside almost on the runway and watch the plane land.
posted by Phil at 5:24 AM
3 Comments:
Hi Phil
The easter island pics look well cool - and from what Jen says you both had a great time. I hope New Zealand and Australia are just as good as South America.
Siobhan
I loved the history Bill tale about his father-in-law too - Jen x
The taxi driver was'nt called Floyd by any chance?
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