Bangkok
We arrived in Bangkok, my final stop of the trip. We'd seen a leaflet of what seemed to be good hotel near Khao San Road in the centre of things - The New World Lodge. Luckily they had enough rooms for us. We were are pretty tired so just decided to grab a meal however the staff in the restaurant were all simple. They served two of our meals then explained that the other two were "off" we suggested that they should have told us that at the time of ordering. The meals were poor when they arrived and Wakey was sick that night. They got the bill wrong then took ages to sort it out by which time Wakey had left as he was going to flatten the waiter!!
It was a bad first impression and it was a shame as the rooms and location turned out to be spot on. On our first day we decided to do a bit of sightseeing we walked along Khao San and headed towards the Grand Palace. On our way a few people stopped us and asked where we were going, if we needed a Tuk-tuk etc. One guy who told us he was a school teacher and listed things we should see and mentioned the Grand Palace wouldn't open until 2. He seemed really genuine - I'm always pretty sceptical and had read in the guide books to ignore anyone who tells you the Palace is closed but he didn't seem to want anything from us and flagged down some Tuk-tuks for us. Well we took 2 Tuk-tuks and that was an experience in itself racing through the traffic, hanging on to the side trying to make sure we didn't lose the other Tuk-tuk. At points it was like a computer game as we raced down tiny alleyways - there could quite easily have been something coming from the other direction it was amazing that we didn't hit something. Then we were racing towards a dead-end but instead of slowing down we actually sped up heading towards a foodcart blocking the alley - at the last second we turned 90 degrees down another alley on 2 wheels.
We laughed about it but I think we were all glad to be at our first stop - Wat Intharavihan a giant Buddah statue. I was amused at the door as Lloydy bought a bird in a cage to release infornt of the Buddah for good luck - he made Wakey carry it and then Wakey released it before we could get any pictures.
There were some other buildings close by and we had a look inside at the artwork and the designs on the outside.
Our next stop after we hesitantly got back onboard our 'transport' was another temple. This place was pretty quiet and a lot of the buildings were locked. Eventually we did notice a Thai man at a small Buddah statue who explained this was the Lucky Buddah.
In front of the statue was a footprint carved into the stone with intricate markings on the sole.
The guy seemed OK but talked a lot - he explained that we had been taken in by a scam of sorts as the teacher we had talked to earlier in the day had given us a piece of paper with a list of things to visit, but had also included a sort of code word on it and had got the Tuk-tuks so cheap because if they took us to the fashion expo (A tailors shop it turned out) they would get their petrol money paid for by the tailors. We had planned to miss out on the tailors shop but didn't want to see the Tuk-tuk drivers out of pocket as they'd been friendly enough. So we let them take us to the shop and after a brief look around made our excuses and left.
Well that was enough sight seeing for the lads so we headed back to the hotel and then hit the bars.
We spent a lot of time over the next few days drinking on the Khao San. The place really grew on me as initially it was nothing like I was expecting. Most of the street looked like it was falling down and a lot of the bars looked dirty, however the place did have atmosphere and it was fascinating to sit outside and watch the world go by.
At night the road took on a completely different appearance as it got more and more lively. They opened bars everywhere - one of the best transformations I saw was a petrol forecourt during the day which changed into a bar and market by night - we only went to the bar here once though as we were put off by the "waitresses" big hands and deep voices!!
There are a lot of sellers who walk up and down the streets including the Frog sellers with strange hats on trying to sell little wooden frogs with a stick that makes them croak - quite amusing the first time you see them - but so irritating after the 100th time!!
Most of us found it quite easy to ignore the sellers but Wakey (who we described to be like the weak antelope in the pack who the lion picks off!) would always get collared and end up talking for ages (and sometimes buying).
One afternoon Wakey decided to buy a Jack Daniels lighter. Even though he didn't need one Lloydy decided he could get a better deal and bargained the next seller right down - this triggered a bidding war between the two of them which went on all afternoon until we had a table full of tat - they'd even bought something which they weren't sure whther it was a pack of cigars or fireworks - I wasn't going to volunteer to smoke one!!
Our favourite bar had to be Gullivers at one end of the road. It was a sports bar and by giving decent tips we got our own table and some of the best service I've seen. Bars are required to stop serving beer at 1am and a lot of bars close completely however some of the locals showed us a bar that stayed open. I was convinced they wouldn't serve us as we'd been in earlier in the day and I'd seen the "No beer and Spirits served after 1am" sign, however the waiter arrived and we could order pretty much anything we wanted except we had to have it in a plastic cup. Both me and Wakey got hammered that night - I eventually made it back to the hotel. Steve helped Wakey, who apparently wanted to go swimming in the canal next to our hotel - the water was absolutely minging and we could see it bubbling during the day. (I was amazed to see a local worker swimming and "washing" in there one day!!)
The next morning we had booked ourselves on a trip to the Bridge on the River Kwai and Tiger Temple. Only me and Lloydy made it up, but only just - I don't think the rest of the bus were too impressed with the wait - as there were two spare seats Lloydy decided to bring another new friend. The ride to Kanchanaburi passed quickly as I found a comfortable seat on the bus and slept all the way to our first stop - the Allied War Cemetry. It was a strange feeling seeing so many English Graves so far away from home. We went back to wait for the driver after a quick look around - we got bored of waiting so went off for a coffee. When we got back to the bus everyone was waiting for us again!! Luckily I got chatting to a few of them and they turned out to be a nice bunch.
Our next stop was the WWII Art Gallery and War Museum. It was an odd museum which looks like a chinese temple on the outside - there were exhibits about the bridge and WWII but some of the captions alongside were written in very odd English which was even stranger considering the serious subject matter. There was another building lined with historical figures from the war including Hitler. The ground floor was quite intersting with weaponry and photographs from WWII. However the collections got stranger as you climbed up through the building and there was a real mix of artifacts from paintings of the King to Miss Thailand clothing.
You got a good view of the bridge from the museum but we decided to walk down to it and cross to the other side.
For those of you who don't know about the bridge here's a bit of history...
Immortalised in the famous movie and novel, it was a part of the infamous Death Railway to Burma, constructed by POWs working for the Japanese in hellish conditions during World War 2. Begun in October 1942, using prisoner of war (POW) labour, it was completed and operational by early February 1943. Some 16,000 POWs and 100,000 Asian workers died during the railway construction. The present iron bridge is the second wartime incarnation, but 2 central 'boxy' spans were rebuilt after the war to replace three sections destroyed by Allied bombing.
As we got to the bridge which looks quite rickety, someone said a train was coming we thought they were joking so headed across - on our way back we saw that a train was in fact coming and we were trapped on the bridge - we were amused by some American woman who refused to believe a train was crossing the 'tourist attraction' and wouldn't move. We were just worried we'd be late back for the bus again!!
We landed back at the bus just in time and went off for lunch on a floating restaurant and even managed a beer. After lunch we visited the Sai Yok Noi waterfalls and chilled out for a bit.
We then headed over to our final stop for the day the Tiger Temple (Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua) - one of the most amazing places I've seen. The Buddhist temple keeps numerous animals, among them several tame tigers that can be petted by tourists. In 1999 the temple received the first tiger cub; it had been found by villagers and died soon after. Several tiger cubs were later given to the temple, typically when the mothers had been killed by poachers. As of 2006, over ten cubs had been born at the temple and the total number of tigers was about eighteen.
The tigers spend most of the time in cages, being fed with dry cat food and cooked chicken to avoid them getting a taste for blood. They are washed and handled by the monks. Once a day, they are led on leashes to a nearby quarry. Originally they would roam around freely in this area, but now with the increase in tourists they are chained as they get grumpier in the afternoon. A group of Thai staff and some volunteers lead tourists around by the hand to pose and pat the tigers and take photographs of them using the tourist's camera. Those who are not up for it may also observe from a safe distance.
The temple collects donations for feeding and upkeep, and to fund the building of a larger tiger sanctuary to simulate their natural environment. There are plans to release some of the animals back into the wild someday.
When we got off the bus we noticed how much hotter the day had become. The boiling hot walk to the quarry where the tigers were kept was well worth it (there was a rank smell on the way). Although I'd read about it I was not prepared to see the tigers out in the open so close to people with so much freedom to move around if they chose too. However I figured as I'd come this far so I had to get close and get some photos taken.
One of the guides led me to the tigers and I got to pat one. The guide wanted me to sit on a ledge between two of the tigers but I politely declined. The whole thing was an incredible experience.
They were doing a lot of building work on the site to build the new environment but we were still able to walk around and we saw a tiger playing with her cubs as well as some buffalo and wart hogs.
After leaving the temple and stocking up on water we headed back to Bangkok.
On the lads last day in Bangkok Lloydy's friend showed us around MBK - a huge shopping centre. I was amazed by the place - the top floor was like a giant market full of tourist souvenirs whilst the other floors had knock-off designer clothes, dvds and computer software. You could also pick-up Ipods and mobile phones dirt cheap. After a bit of shopping we headed out for a farewell beer and a game of darts and ping-pong. On the way back to the hotel Lloydy decided to have a final feast and found this stall selling cooked locusts, crickets and other creepy crawely treats - I'm not quite sure how he managed not to throw up.
With the lads gone I decided to get some more sight seeing in and headed to the Grand Palace. I was determined not to be distracted this time. I was collared quite a few times on my walk there with people who told me the palace was closed but I politely told them I'd take my chances and headed on.
The palace was open so I got my ticket and headed inside. I should have probably got a guide but decided just to wander around inside. It consists of over 100 brightly colored buildings, golden spires and glittering mosaics, and dates back to 1782, when Bangkok was founded.
The first major site inside is the Temple of the Emerald Buddah Thailand's most important and sacred temple. It houses the tiny Emerald Buddha, which is located high above the heads of the worshippers and tourists. It's thought to have been made in the 15th century and was the cause of several wars before ending up for good in Bangkok in 1782. The image is considered a talisman and holds tremendous significance for Thailand and the Thais. The 'robe' that it wears is changed 3 times each year by the King himself, at the start of each season: A diamond encrusted gold robe during the hot season, a solid gold robe in the cool season and a gilded monk's robe in the rainy season. Security in the temple is very strict and you are not allowed to photograph the Buddah - I saw an old man get caught and the guard deleted half of his pictures.
There was a lot of other stuff to see in the compound outside and the place was crowded with worshipers and tourists. In the main section were huge statues of Giants (Yak) and Bird Women (Kinaree). There was even a scale model of the Cambodian temple complex Angkor Wat. In covered alcoves all around the walls were huge murals, some of which were being pain stakingly restored.
I wandered around the rest of the palace complex and checked out the museum.
I left the Palace and after some lunch I headed to another temple close to the Palace - Wat Pho. Wat Pho is mainly famous for the huge Reclining Buddha statue it houses. It holds the dual honors of having both Thailand's largest reclining Buddha image and the most number of Buddha images in Thailand.
The large grounds of Wat Pho contain more than 1000 Buddha images in total, most from the ruins of the former capitals Ayuthaya and Sukhothai
The other buildings and temples in the complex were impressive too even though there was a lot of restoration work going on.
On my last full day in Bangkok I decided to check out the Jim Thompson house and do some last minute shopping.
I'd read about Jim Thompson when I'd been in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia (See my Blog entry). The Jim Thompson House was the home of James H.W. Thompson in Bangkok, a self-made American entrepreneur who was the founder of the world renowned Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company. In 1967, Jim Thompson went on holiday with friends to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. There he set out for a walk in the surrounding jungle but never returned. Thus began the Jim Thompson legend. His Bangkok house has been left relatively untouched since then.
The house consists of a complex of six traditional Thai-style houses, teak structures that were purchased from several owners and brought to the present location from various parts of Thailand. Construction of the Thai house was completed in 1959. The house contains Thompson's extensive art and antique collection. Walking around the house and grounds was like stepping back in time. The entrance fee included a guided tour and we ended up getting a really good guide.
After my visit I realised I was quite near to the MBK shopping centre so headed back for some last minute bargains.
Finally it was time to leave Bangkok the last city in the last country of my travels. I had found Thailand to be an amazing place - I'd really wanted to see Chiang Mai in the North but just ran out of time. In fact what I've found is the more you travel the more you want to go on and see, and the more people you talk to about amazing places they've been to the more you realise you could spend years traveling and barely scratch the surface.
It was a bad first impression and it was a shame as the rooms and location turned out to be spot on. On our first day we decided to do a bit of sightseeing we walked along Khao San and headed towards the Grand Palace. On our way a few people stopped us and asked where we were going, if we needed a Tuk-tuk etc. One guy who told us he was a school teacher and listed things we should see and mentioned the Grand Palace wouldn't open until 2. He seemed really genuine - I'm always pretty sceptical and had read in the guide books to ignore anyone who tells you the Palace is closed but he didn't seem to want anything from us and flagged down some Tuk-tuks for us. Well we took 2 Tuk-tuks and that was an experience in itself racing through the traffic, hanging on to the side trying to make sure we didn't lose the other Tuk-tuk. At points it was like a computer game as we raced down tiny alleyways - there could quite easily have been something coming from the other direction it was amazing that we didn't hit something. Then we were racing towards a dead-end but instead of slowing down we actually sped up heading towards a foodcart blocking the alley - at the last second we turned 90 degrees down another alley on 2 wheels.
We laughed about it but I think we were all glad to be at our first stop - Wat Intharavihan a giant Buddah statue. I was amused at the door as Lloydy bought a bird in a cage to release infornt of the Buddah for good luck - he made Wakey carry it and then Wakey released it before we could get any pictures.
There were some other buildings close by and we had a look inside at the artwork and the designs on the outside.
Our next stop after we hesitantly got back onboard our 'transport' was another temple. This place was pretty quiet and a lot of the buildings were locked. Eventually we did notice a Thai man at a small Buddah statue who explained this was the Lucky Buddah.
In front of the statue was a footprint carved into the stone with intricate markings on the sole.
The guy seemed OK but talked a lot - he explained that we had been taken in by a scam of sorts as the teacher we had talked to earlier in the day had given us a piece of paper with a list of things to visit, but had also included a sort of code word on it and had got the Tuk-tuks so cheap because if they took us to the fashion expo (A tailors shop it turned out) they would get their petrol money paid for by the tailors. We had planned to miss out on the tailors shop but didn't want to see the Tuk-tuk drivers out of pocket as they'd been friendly enough. So we let them take us to the shop and after a brief look around made our excuses and left.
Well that was enough sight seeing for the lads so we headed back to the hotel and then hit the bars.
We spent a lot of time over the next few days drinking on the Khao San. The place really grew on me as initially it was nothing like I was expecting. Most of the street looked like it was falling down and a lot of the bars looked dirty, however the place did have atmosphere and it was fascinating to sit outside and watch the world go by.
At night the road took on a completely different appearance as it got more and more lively. They opened bars everywhere - one of the best transformations I saw was a petrol forecourt during the day which changed into a bar and market by night - we only went to the bar here once though as we were put off by the "waitresses" big hands and deep voices!!
There are a lot of sellers who walk up and down the streets including the Frog sellers with strange hats on trying to sell little wooden frogs with a stick that makes them croak - quite amusing the first time you see them - but so irritating after the 100th time!!
Most of us found it quite easy to ignore the sellers but Wakey (who we described to be like the weak antelope in the pack who the lion picks off!) would always get collared and end up talking for ages (and sometimes buying).
One afternoon Wakey decided to buy a Jack Daniels lighter. Even though he didn't need one Lloydy decided he could get a better deal and bargained the next seller right down - this triggered a bidding war between the two of them which went on all afternoon until we had a table full of tat - they'd even bought something which they weren't sure whther it was a pack of cigars or fireworks - I wasn't going to volunteer to smoke one!!
Our favourite bar had to be Gullivers at one end of the road. It was a sports bar and by giving decent tips we got our own table and some of the best service I've seen. Bars are required to stop serving beer at 1am and a lot of bars close completely however some of the locals showed us a bar that stayed open. I was convinced they wouldn't serve us as we'd been in earlier in the day and I'd seen the "No beer and Spirits served after 1am" sign, however the waiter arrived and we could order pretty much anything we wanted except we had to have it in a plastic cup. Both me and Wakey got hammered that night - I eventually made it back to the hotel. Steve helped Wakey, who apparently wanted to go swimming in the canal next to our hotel - the water was absolutely minging and we could see it bubbling during the day. (I was amazed to see a local worker swimming and "washing" in there one day!!)
The next morning we had booked ourselves on a trip to the Bridge on the River Kwai and Tiger Temple. Only me and Lloydy made it up, but only just - I don't think the rest of the bus were too impressed with the wait - as there were two spare seats Lloydy decided to bring another new friend. The ride to Kanchanaburi passed quickly as I found a comfortable seat on the bus and slept all the way to our first stop - the Allied War Cemetry. It was a strange feeling seeing so many English Graves so far away from home. We went back to wait for the driver after a quick look around - we got bored of waiting so went off for a coffee. When we got back to the bus everyone was waiting for us again!! Luckily I got chatting to a few of them and they turned out to be a nice bunch.
Our next stop was the WWII Art Gallery and War Museum. It was an odd museum which looks like a chinese temple on the outside - there were exhibits about the bridge and WWII but some of the captions alongside were written in very odd English which was even stranger considering the serious subject matter. There was another building lined with historical figures from the war including Hitler. The ground floor was quite intersting with weaponry and photographs from WWII. However the collections got stranger as you climbed up through the building and there was a real mix of artifacts from paintings of the King to Miss Thailand clothing.
You got a good view of the bridge from the museum but we decided to walk down to it and cross to the other side.
For those of you who don't know about the bridge here's a bit of history...
Immortalised in the famous movie and novel, it was a part of the infamous Death Railway to Burma, constructed by POWs working for the Japanese in hellish conditions during World War 2. Begun in October 1942, using prisoner of war (POW) labour, it was completed and operational by early February 1943. Some 16,000 POWs and 100,000 Asian workers died during the railway construction. The present iron bridge is the second wartime incarnation, but 2 central 'boxy' spans were rebuilt after the war to replace three sections destroyed by Allied bombing.
As we got to the bridge which looks quite rickety, someone said a train was coming we thought they were joking so headed across - on our way back we saw that a train was in fact coming and we were trapped on the bridge - we were amused by some American woman who refused to believe a train was crossing the 'tourist attraction' and wouldn't move. We were just worried we'd be late back for the bus again!!
We landed back at the bus just in time and went off for lunch on a floating restaurant and even managed a beer. After lunch we visited the Sai Yok Noi waterfalls and chilled out for a bit.
We then headed over to our final stop for the day the Tiger Temple (Wat Pha Luang Ta Bua) - one of the most amazing places I've seen. The Buddhist temple keeps numerous animals, among them several tame tigers that can be petted by tourists. In 1999 the temple received the first tiger cub; it had been found by villagers and died soon after. Several tiger cubs were later given to the temple, typically when the mothers had been killed by poachers. As of 2006, over ten cubs had been born at the temple and the total number of tigers was about eighteen.
The tigers spend most of the time in cages, being fed with dry cat food and cooked chicken to avoid them getting a taste for blood. They are washed and handled by the monks. Once a day, they are led on leashes to a nearby quarry. Originally they would roam around freely in this area, but now with the increase in tourists they are chained as they get grumpier in the afternoon. A group of Thai staff and some volunteers lead tourists around by the hand to pose and pat the tigers and take photographs of them using the tourist's camera. Those who are not up for it may also observe from a safe distance.
The temple collects donations for feeding and upkeep, and to fund the building of a larger tiger sanctuary to simulate their natural environment. There are plans to release some of the animals back into the wild someday.
When we got off the bus we noticed how much hotter the day had become. The boiling hot walk to the quarry where the tigers were kept was well worth it (there was a rank smell on the way). Although I'd read about it I was not prepared to see the tigers out in the open so close to people with so much freedom to move around if they chose too. However I figured as I'd come this far so I had to get close and get some photos taken.
One of the guides led me to the tigers and I got to pat one. The guide wanted me to sit on a ledge between two of the tigers but I politely declined. The whole thing was an incredible experience.
They were doing a lot of building work on the site to build the new environment but we were still able to walk around and we saw a tiger playing with her cubs as well as some buffalo and wart hogs.
After leaving the temple and stocking up on water we headed back to Bangkok.
On the lads last day in Bangkok Lloydy's friend showed us around MBK - a huge shopping centre. I was amazed by the place - the top floor was like a giant market full of tourist souvenirs whilst the other floors had knock-off designer clothes, dvds and computer software. You could also pick-up Ipods and mobile phones dirt cheap. After a bit of shopping we headed out for a farewell beer and a game of darts and ping-pong. On the way back to the hotel Lloydy decided to have a final feast and found this stall selling cooked locusts, crickets and other creepy crawely treats - I'm not quite sure how he managed not to throw up.
With the lads gone I decided to get some more sight seeing in and headed to the Grand Palace. I was determined not to be distracted this time. I was collared quite a few times on my walk there with people who told me the palace was closed but I politely told them I'd take my chances and headed on.
The palace was open so I got my ticket and headed inside. I should have probably got a guide but decided just to wander around inside. It consists of over 100 brightly colored buildings, golden spires and glittering mosaics, and dates back to 1782, when Bangkok was founded.
The first major site inside is the Temple of the Emerald Buddah Thailand's most important and sacred temple. It houses the tiny Emerald Buddha, which is located high above the heads of the worshippers and tourists. It's thought to have been made in the 15th century and was the cause of several wars before ending up for good in Bangkok in 1782. The image is considered a talisman and holds tremendous significance for Thailand and the Thais. The 'robe' that it wears is changed 3 times each year by the King himself, at the start of each season: A diamond encrusted gold robe during the hot season, a solid gold robe in the cool season and a gilded monk's robe in the rainy season. Security in the temple is very strict and you are not allowed to photograph the Buddah - I saw an old man get caught and the guard deleted half of his pictures.
There was a lot of other stuff to see in the compound outside and the place was crowded with worshipers and tourists. In the main section were huge statues of Giants (Yak) and Bird Women (Kinaree). There was even a scale model of the Cambodian temple complex Angkor Wat. In covered alcoves all around the walls were huge murals, some of which were being pain stakingly restored.
I wandered around the rest of the palace complex and checked out the museum.
I left the Palace and after some lunch I headed to another temple close to the Palace - Wat Pho. Wat Pho is mainly famous for the huge Reclining Buddha statue it houses. It holds the dual honors of having both Thailand's largest reclining Buddha image and the most number of Buddha images in Thailand.
The large grounds of Wat Pho contain more than 1000 Buddha images in total, most from the ruins of the former capitals Ayuthaya and Sukhothai
The other buildings and temples in the complex were impressive too even though there was a lot of restoration work going on.
On my last full day in Bangkok I decided to check out the Jim Thompson house and do some last minute shopping.
I'd read about Jim Thompson when I'd been in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia (See my Blog entry). The Jim Thompson House was the home of James H.W. Thompson in Bangkok, a self-made American entrepreneur who was the founder of the world renowned Jim Thompson Thai Silk Company. In 1967, Jim Thompson went on holiday with friends to the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. There he set out for a walk in the surrounding jungle but never returned. Thus began the Jim Thompson legend. His Bangkok house has been left relatively untouched since then.
The house consists of a complex of six traditional Thai-style houses, teak structures that were purchased from several owners and brought to the present location from various parts of Thailand. Construction of the Thai house was completed in 1959. The house contains Thompson's extensive art and antique collection. Walking around the house and grounds was like stepping back in time. The entrance fee included a guided tour and we ended up getting a really good guide.
After my visit I realised I was quite near to the MBK shopping centre so headed back for some last minute bargains.
Finally it was time to leave Bangkok the last city in the last country of my travels. I had found Thailand to be an amazing place - I'd really wanted to see Chiang Mai in the North but just ran out of time. In fact what I've found is the more you travel the more you want to go on and see, and the more people you talk to about amazing places they've been to the more you realise you could spend years traveling and barely scratch the surface.
posted by Phil at 7:23 PM
2 Comments:
Nice, i like the bit about "Lloydys friend" your a bit scetchy on some of the detail!
Sounds like a drunken fortnight! The Buddha's look really good especially the golden one on its side!
Love
Jen
xxxxxx
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